Kim Jones' Tenure at LVMH
With the recent news that shocked the industry, we now have had the rumor confirmed Kim Jones is departing LVMH. Now Mr.Jones has been the artistic director since 2011 now departing with the mega house the two have been working for 7 years. Most recently Mr.Jones was one of the big bold power moves to merge and color the spaces between high-end fashion and streetwear. With the huge success of Louis Vuitton and Supreme, Mr.Jones cemented his tenure in the streetwear community. But Kim Jones is not just the director who took the cult based streetwear mega house and merged it with the titian historical fashion house and made an insanely hyped collaboration. Kim Jones is a lot more and now with his departure, we can now look at his time at LVMH and take some time to see his highlights through 2011-2018. With his last LVMH show debut on January 18, we can see the last performance of the British creative.
To fully understand Mr.Jones influences and his creative process we must acknowledge the backstory of the British born director. Born in England the brit often traveled mostly in Africa returning to the UK in his late teens to continue his education. Spending time in parts of Africa (Kenya) gave Kim a different environment to sponge up influences. As Well as graduating from the prestigious school of Central Saint Martins, Mr.Jones launched his own line from 2003-2008. Jones debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2004 and worked his way up the ranks and gained notoriety from the industry. John Galliano most notably worked with him during his earlier tenures. In 2008 Jones ended his personal line to take the role of creative director of Dunhill. In which Jones flourished from 2008-2011. During that time Jones worked with big-name houses such as Alexander McQueen, ( McQueen era) Hugo Boss (Jason Wu era) and Mulberry as long as with other labels before entering as artistic director at LVMH. Winning Menswear Designer of the Year in 2009 and 2011 by The British Fashion Council, Mr.Jones is a decorated and well respected creative in the industry that being said Jones most notably rose to superstar status at LVMH. During his reign, Jones had many career highlights such as his famous 2012 collection.
Kims collection in 2012 was a huge success for LVMH and lit a fire in the industry. During the runway, we saw how Jones implemented his influence from Kenya with the footwear shown. The tailoring was also a nod to his roots from the Academy of Central Saint Martins. The whole collection was infused with outdoor-inspired items and beautiful scarves and Masai prints.
Another highlight of Kim at LVMH is Fall 2013 Menswear of course. This collection was my personal favorite out of all of Mr.Jones collections. Inspired by traveling to Bhutan we saw as cashmere coats were done elegantly with leopard spots, something that sounds impossible as animal prints are usually tacky and outlandish but Jones was able to capture this subtle and the beautiful tailoring on the coat just executed the twist of elegance with geography and nature. This collection we saw a lot of cashmere, silk, fur, shearling, and leather. Another outstanding piece was the cream/white shearling jacket seen on look sixteen. The fur trim hood captures the high-end look as it is mixed with the classic shearling military-ess look. With orange accents across the cuffs and hood, the execution of fabric picking is phenomenal. Revisiting the collection there isn't a single garment I wouldn't want own. The showstopper was easily look thirty-seven. The silk jacket had a base color of red with floral detailing with almost nature-inspired detailing with a paisley pattern through the garment. The waist belt tied the whole look together and was the most desired item from this collection.
Now it wouldn't be modern fashion without talking about the elephant in the room. That elephant being Fall 2017 Menswear. The Supreme collaboration that broke the internet. For weeks Instagram was flooded by sheep who posted photos with there box logos which retailed at 400+usd and resell for on average 900+. Now the release was not smooth at all. Behind the scenes, there were rumors about shutting down a lot of major city stores due to past incidents where angry impatient campers lose their cool and turn the peaceful line into a Fightclub scene. Sizing was a huge issue as most of these teens have never worn Louis Vuitton or any European clothing and had no idea on sizing. These fools were buying their normal size M and go home, try the shirt on and it would look like you went swimming in a dry fit shirt. The sizing was undersized compared to American sizing and that resulted into a pit in the resell market. Now, what does this have to do with this being a highlight of Kim Jones? Well, the collection aside this caused insane internet buzz. If you were a wealthy teen who had access to your parent's credit card you were hitting Grailed like an addict at a re-up. Now focusing on the collection one of the main desired items was the kettle bag. A red leather shoulder bag that sells for a insane amount. Enough to cover the average college tuition or a whole village in North Africa. My personal favorite piece was shown in look six with the alligator skin jacket with a fur interior and adjustable cuffs. I have not seen the item but I can assure you that I can't even afford to breathe the air around that garment. Being that everyone who copped posted their item online the most bought items were; The Supreme and Louis Vuitton Box logo, the blue baseball jersey monogram shirt, the LV monogram denim pants and anything that hints you own LV x Supreme. The whole collection was an insane Michael Jordan leap to bridging the gap between high end and streetwear. Thank you, Kim, for ruining the industry.
With the curtain closing, we saw the last Kim Jones collection at LVMH with Fall 2018 Menswear. Through the whole collection, there is almost this metallic undertone. The color palettes and the whole earthy/desert tone on the runway floor emersed the show and gave the runway the outdoor feel that Kim has done so well for the past seven years. With different outfit and tones, every outfit implemented some metallic coloring and a pearlescent scheme. For the first fourteen looks we see a blue and silver color scheme and then a transition to a bronze-like palette for looks fifteen to seventeen, then back to the blue metallic futuristic scheme. Overall there are some looks that do not sit well with the whole show such as the look with the highlighter yellow looks (thirty-four- thirty-six) or the bright orange(twenty-four - twenty-eight) but Mr.Jones made a uniform collection with beautiful colors and patterns. Being Kim’s last show Mr.Jones brought out one of the two biggest model ever Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. Naomi with a stunning blackish and dark blue metallic coat with a simple black belt across her waist. The coat with a subtle grey monogram across the garment just complimented Naomi. Kate Moss was seen with a similar coat with lapels with a brown monogram belt. The garment is in the classic Louis Vuitton shade of brown with the light brown monogram across the coat. That being said sadly, in the end, we see Mr.Jones do his last walk at Louis Vuitton with his combat boots and on his right accompanied by Naomi and on his left accompanied by Kate.
Seven years, many collections and countless pieces that will going down in history Kim Jones has done so much for LVMH it will be hard to top his work. Whoever his successor will be at LVMH will find it very difficult to even be on the same level as Kim.